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Horse Fencing


An important part of being a horse owner is providing a proper horse fence. Two aspects to keep in mind when purchasing a horse fence are the type of materials used and the height of the fence.

Usually, a horse fence is not created out of steel, concrete or brick as these materials can cause bruises or broken bones. If wire or wooden boards are used for the horse fence, special attention must be given to the upkeep of the fence as broken boards and wires are dangerous. In regard to height, a 4'6" horse fence will discourage horses from jumping over it.

However, if you need a horse fence to separate stallions, nothing lower than 5' or 6' should be used. In addition, a stallion should never share a horse fence with another stallion. If housing foals, the horse fence should be small enough that a foal can not put its head through the walls and low enough so they are unable to roll underneath.

Dog Runs and kennels

Whether you are looking for a portable dog kennel, a simple dog run or a complete kennel for your business, we can help. We have solutions for any budget.

Cat Fencing

Yes, I said cat fencing. We have installed many fences for our feline friends and we even have installed privacy fences with solutions to keep your pet safe. Call for details.

Chickens and kennels

What’s the best kind of chicken wire and fencing?


Fencing of some kind is essential around your coop and/or chicken yard to keep your chickens in and to keep pests and predators out. Pests (mice, rats, snakes, etc.) want your chickens’ dinner. Predators (dogs, raccoons, foxes, hawks, etc.) want your chickens for dinner. There are a several kinds of wire and fencing, and I’ll talk about a handful of them here:


Galvanized hardware cloth. This is the best material for enclosing a chicken coop or enclosed run.  In particular, you want 1/2″ galvanized hardware cloth (usually 19 gauge). Smaller openings could be too brittle, and larger openings will not deter against rats or snakes. Hardware cloth comes in 3-, 4-, 5-, and 6-foot rolls—with 3′ and 4′ being the most common—and in roll lengths anywhere from 5, 25, 50 to 100 feet. The mesh is made by weaving or welding steel wires together, then hot-dipping it in zinc (galvanizing it) to protect it from rust. It’s a stiff product, but you can bend it by hand, cut it fairly easily with a pair of wire snips, and attach it to your frame or posts with 3/4″ galvanized poultry fencing staples (Avoid using staples from a staple gun. They can rust easily, and if/when they slip out, they will get pecked at.) Once bent into shape, hardware cloth holds its shape well.


Chicken wire. Maybe because of its name, this is what most people think to use first on their coops. It’s made of thin wire woven together to create hexagonal openings. It’s relatively cheap but rusts quickly. And while it will keep your chickens in, it won’t keep the raccoons out. . . . Chicken wire could work fine as a fence for a daytime yard, where you can keep a watchful eye on your chickens. Some people use this on the upper parts of their coops/enclosed runs to save money. Just keep in mind that if a rodent climbs up there, it too can get through the openings.


Chain link. This type of fencing is strong and easy to come by. It will keep chickens in and a dog out, but the hands and arms of a raccoon can reach through and cause a terrible scene. So make sure your chickens have a place to retreat too should they be threatened.


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